I saw The Northern Lights

*The original of this article is on Zeynep’s own blog, Counting 50! https://dtzeynepdogan.wordpress.com/2019/03/19/i-saw-the-northern-lights/

It was never in my bucket list.

Well, to be honest I don’t have a bucket list at all. But I rate places that I’ve visited or things I’ve done whether I’d be happy to share it with my loved ones, would I want them to experience it and would I like to do it again with them. This Northern Lights in Abisko trip ticked all the boxes.  It certainly did.

You might have seen many pictures, photos and documentaries about them but being there gives another perspective. It is one of those things, better experienced in first hand rather than looking at a video.

I am not going to tell you about the facts around the Northern Lights, I am sure Google has a vast resource for this. For a basic tourist, there are apps, websites that would let you know real-time activity level from the weather stations in the region. When the activity level is at 2-3, the lights are there but only with the help of a professional SLR camera the green colors are visible, hence you look at the photos.

So how on earth we have seen them not only one night but two nights, well let me tell you about it.

First, you need to have the weather on your side. If it is a cloudy night you won’t be able to see anything. The best view is on a clear sky where you see stars as well as bright moon. During our stay in Abisko, it was highly disappointing on the 1st night and on the 3rd night it could have been a real worry if we hadn’t seen them on previous night. Yes, we stayed 4 nights in a hostel in Abisko, Sweden and we were so lucky with the weather and the lights were fantastic two of those four nights.

These photos were taken in the very beginning of the night, lights were not very strong. Throughout the night we learned and trained our eyes how to distinguish the activity from a thin cloud but the colors were not bright enough, we kept looking from the camera on that night.

On the second night (3rd night of our stay) the lights were much stronger; they were around level 4 or maybe higher on the activity ladder and this time we were able to enjoy the lights and did not need to look at the camera. Mainly they were bright green color, but we also saw a bit of pink underneath the greens which means those were much closer to earth. These were taken on the second night. Once the show starts it takes around 2 hours to stop but during the night, they could come up again.

We stayed in Abisko in Sweden. It is a small town next to the Torneträsk Lake and due to the mountains around it the weather is much drier, and it has more clear nights than next residential area. There are a few hostels, guesthouses and a couple of hotels in the area. During our stay we kept nights for only Northern Lights, at some point we literally chased them in the woods, over the lake, up the hill. During the days we had the options to try all winter related activities, ice fishing, ice climbing, dog sledding, snowmobile where you pay extra fees for each. Hiking in the nature was free and with the scenery around the lake it was fantastic. We even walked over the frozen lake, which was a quite experience. I used a chain type of accessory over my boots to be able to walk over the ice. It was a hard work to put on before you step out and take off when you want to step inside but it worth. I was so happy to walk around with no fear of slippery icy conditions.

During our stay we took a day trip Narvik, Norway. With a view of beautiful river and mountains, it is one of those best scenic routes in the region.  On our way back to airport on the last day we also stopped by the IceHotel in Kiruna. It is an interesting idea turned into a tourist spot over the years. The one that we visited was Icehotel number 29, apparently, they have been rebuilding the hotel for the last 29 years from scratch.

They identify huge ice cubes in the adjacent river during spring, carry them with cranes top the workshop and carve them into arty objects and show them during winter and in summer they all melt and go back to the river.

Apart from the weather there is a very important factor in the success of this trip, the tour guide. Our tour was a small group of 15 people and our tour guide, Naim, has been to this same place with many groups over the last 5 years. We were the 14th group and only one group didn’t see the lights so far. This is a big success rate I’d like to think especially in a real natural event. Naim, did his best for us to enjoy the whole process, leading us to the viewing spots throughout the night. At times when it was too cold or late, he would send us back to hostel to get some warm but would call us whenever he spotted any activity. His enthusiasm and ambition to see the lights were unbelievable.

In Abisko the rule of thumb is “no promise on catching the Northern Lights or arctic char, the fish lives in the lake.” It is all in natures hand. You could also ask to the Northern Light Fairy for some help though. I’d like to think that my short discussions with the snowmen around the lake on the 2nd and 4th days, did help us as well.

What I also realize about this Northern Lights trip is that it has a strong level of attraction on social media as well.  The minute I shared my whereabouts and my photos the entire friends on FB and Instagram showed an interest.

So below is the link to the tour  that we were in for your information, and I strongly recommend: My Escape to Nature.com

Written By Zeynep Dogan

Next Northern Lights Tour

Northern Lights&Arctic Adventure/11-15 March 2020

Iron Oro Train (Mauritania)

I will call “Iron Oro Train” as Sahara Express as I think it is more suitable to call it as Sahara Express because I never know any other train which cross some part of Sahara. This is the only train runs some part of Sahara Desert and also cross most of the Mauritania from West to the North East. Actually, this train is mainly to carry the iron from iron mine to the harbour of Nouadhibou. It is not for passengers but because of luck of transport and road from Nouadhibou to directly East Mauritania people use it as transport. There are at least 3 trains run from Nouadhibou to Zoureat but only 1 of them has passenger wagon even though most of the people do not use passenger wagon because it is not worth to use it without proper sitting places. Not many people want to use the passenger wagon but instead they take one of the empty carriage wagon and to ride this wagon is for free of charge. Also if you want to ride passenger wagon it is not expensive it should be around £6. Anyway let me give you more information how to get this train. The train which stops for passenger usually between 2pm to 4pm. So to be for sure to take the train I went to train station which is outside of the city at the entrance of the city of Nouadhibou took a taxi from the city. As a foreigner the taxi driver will want expensive fare for the ride but 50 Mauritania Ouguiyas (£1.2) is enough that is what I pay. I would recommend always ask your hotel receptionist or if you eat in a restaurant or drink coffee ask the stuff about the price what locals pay so you will have exact idea how much it will cost you. I went to train station at 2pm so when I arrive, I asked the locals waiting for the train and they told me that the train would come between 6pm to 7pm so be ready to wait long hours. There was small kiosk at the train station to get something to eat but also take food and drinks with you as the train journey will be 12 hours. 
So when the time was coming around 7pm the security guys told me that the train will be at 1am 🙂
I was not angry that the train will start to run late but rather I was happy as if I take the train late so I will see more landscape on the way when the sun will start to rise around 6.30am also be aware that as the train cross the desert it is cold and windy at night. I would suggest you take good sleeping bag and good outdoor dresses with you.
The train arrived at 00.40. It usually waits at the station around 15 minutes so you have enough time to get on the train.
The adventure train journey started at 1am I could not sleep much that night as it was cold and windy so This journey is only for adventurous people.
I put my alarm for 6am as the sun rise was around 6.30 and I wanted to see the first lights over Sahara Desert.
I slept a little bit that night and wake up at 6am and saw how the train cross the desert. Then amazing sunrise over Sahara Desert.
The landscape was amazing. I was lucky to see it. Also, I cant wait to see the 3rd biggest monobloc in the World. It is Ben Amera. more info here.
it is 60km before Chaum where you get off the train. I think one of the highlights of this epic journey is also to see the 3rd biggest Monoblock and also there were many more Monoblock rising on the desert. 
Yes at the end after 12 hours train journey arrived to Chaum where I got off from the train. There are a few minibuses waiting people to transfer to Atar city. So dont worry about the transport. 
I took the minibus and paid 200 Mauritania Ouguiyas (£5) it took 2 hours to arrive to Atar with very good roads. I was so tired and just get a room on the first hotel I see at the center.

Facts about the Iron Oro Train (Sahara Express)
[ ] Be ready at station at 2pm 
[ ] The best way to have this journey is from Nouadhibou to Chaum. The reason is the carriage wagon goes empty.
[ ] The train journey usually takes 12 hours from Nouadhibou to Chaum
[ ] Take with you good sleeping bag, matt, polar dresses, food and drink
[ ] The train on the way stops at some stations to give way to the train coming on other directions. I think at least 3 trains runs at each direction maybe more.

 

Future Adventures

http://myescapetonature.com/future-trips/

Best

Naim

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